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  • Bathymetric Estimation Based on Wave Refraction Patterns

    Author(s)
    D. Splinter, Kristen
    A. Holman, Robert
    Griffith University Author(s)
    Splinter, Kristen
    Year published
    2006
    Metadata
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    Abstract
    As waves enter and travel through the nearshore region, they refract and shoal as a response to gradients in the bathymetry. Many algorithms using the dispersion relationship have been developed to exploit this shoaling variation in the magnitude of the wave number, k, to allow remote sensing estimation of the underlying bathymetry. However, these methods typically ignore the refractive turning of waves as an exploitable signal. A two-step algorithm is developed to estimate bathymetry gradients from gradients in directional wave information. Local wavenumber and angle are extracted from images of surface waves using Hilbert ...
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    As waves enter and travel through the nearshore region, they refract and shoal as a response to gradients in the bathymetry. Many algorithms using the dispersion relationship have been developed to exploit this shoaling variation in the magnitude of the wave number, k, to allow remote sensing estimation of the underlying bathymetry. However, these methods typically ignore the refractive turning of waves as an exploitable signal. A two-step algorithm is developed to estimate bathymetry gradients from gradients in directional wave information. Local wavenumber and angle are extracted from images of surface waves using Hilbert Transform techniques. Bathymetry gradients are calculated from an augmented form of the refraction equation. Synthetic testing of the model shows that under ideal conditions, the model accurately determines two-dimensional bathymetry at wavelength scales with errors on the order of 5% of the true depth. Imagery from field data collections provides challenges for accurate data extraction of wavenumber and wave direction fields. New methods for preprocessing images using standard deviation and wavenumber filters are employed. Data extraction methods using wavelength scale least-squares fits to wrapped phase are developed and tested and show promise at this stage of the work.
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    Conference Title
    Proceedings of the 30th International Conference : Coastal Engineering 2006
    DOI
    https://doi.org/10.1142/9789812709554_0039
    Subject
    Civil Engineering not elsewhere classified
    Image Processing
    Publication URI
    http://hdl.handle.net/10072/158696
    Collection
    • Conference outputs

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