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dc.contributor.authorda Silva, Guilherme Vieira
dc.contributor.authorGomes da Silva, Paula
dc.contributor.authorAraujo, Rafael Sangoi
dc.contributor.authorda Fontoura Klein, Antonio Henrique
dc.contributor.authorToldo, Elrio E
dc.date.accessioned2017-09-22T01:42:23Z
dc.date.available2017-09-22T01:42:23Z
dc.date.issued2017
dc.identifier.issn1679-8759
dc.identifier.doi10.1590/S1679-87592017133706502
dc.identifier.urihttp://hdl.handle.net/10072/347128
dc.description.abstractThis paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measurement point and; 4) development of a new formula/approach to assess wave run-up on embayed beaches (in both exposed and protected areas). During the experiments the significant wave height varied from 0.5 m to 3.01 m, the mean wave period from 2.79 s to 7.76 s (the peak period varied between 2.95 s and 17.18 s), the mean wave direction from 72.5° to 141.9° (the peak direction varied from 39.2° to 169.8°) and the beach slope (tan β) from 0.041 to 0.201. The proposed formula is in good agreement with measured data for different wave conditions and varying degrees of protection. The analysis demonstrates that although R² varies from 0.52 to 0.75, the wave run-up distribution over the measurements agreed well with the proposed model, as shown by quantile-quantile analysis (R²=0.98 to 0.99). The errors observed in individual cases may be related to errors of measurements, modeling and to non-linear processes in the swash zone, such as infragavity waves.
dc.description.peerreviewedYes
dc.languageEnglish
dc.publisherUniversidade de Sao Paulo * Instituto Oceanografico
dc.relation.ispartofpagefrom187
dc.relation.ispartofpageto200
dc.relation.ispartofissue2
dc.relation.ispartofjournalBrazilian Journal of Oceanography
dc.relation.ispartofvolume65
dc.subject.fieldofresearchOceanography not elsewhere classified
dc.subject.fieldofresearchOceanography
dc.subject.fieldofresearchcode040599
dc.subject.fieldofresearchcode0405
dc.titleWave run-up on embayed beaches. Study case: Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil
dc.typeJournal article
dc.type.descriptionC1 - Articles
dc.type.codeC - Journal Articles
dcterms.licensehttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/deed.en
dc.description.versionPublished
gro.facultyGriffith Sciences, Griffith Centre for Coastal Management
gro.rights.copyright© The Author(s) 2017. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.
gro.hasfulltextFull Text
gro.griffith.authorVieira da Silva, Guilherme


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