dc.contributor.author | Gainza, June | |
dc.contributor.author | Rueda, Ana | |
dc.contributor.author | Camus, Paula | |
dc.contributor.author | Tomas, Antonio | |
dc.contributor.author | Mendez, Fernando J | |
dc.contributor.author | Sano, Marcello | |
dc.contributor.author | Tomlinson, Rodger | |
dc.date.accessioned | 2019-06-08T01:31:17Z | |
dc.date.available | 2019-06-08T01:31:17Z | |
dc.date.issued | 2018 | |
dc.identifier.issn | 0749-0208 | |
dc.identifier.doi | https://doi.org/10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-16-00198.1 | |
dc.identifier.uri | http://hdl.handle.net/10072/382285 | |
dc.description.abstract | Wave run-up is defined as the maximum vertical extent of wave up-rush on a beach or structure above the sea water level from wave breaking. Wave run-up is responsible for beach and dune erosion and can be an important component of coastal flooding. Run-up can be estimated using either empirical formulations or sophisticated wave-breaking models with high computational demand. On the other hand, meta-models are efficient approximations of physical-process models that enable researchers to obtain long-term time series of wave dynamics. These hybrid models are developed by combining statistical techniques and numerical models. In this study, a methodology to transform offshore sea conditions to long-term time series of wave run-up is described. The methodology combined the construction of two meta-models of offshore wave propagation to coastal areas and of nearshore wave transformation to run-up. Clustering techniques were then implemented to select a subset of spectral patterns of the offshore conditions for nearshore transfer and a subset of sea states for reconstructing the run-up. Multivariate, radial-basis functions were then fitted to the outputs of the wave propagation and wave run-up simulations to reconstruct the time series of sea-state parameters in shallow water and the time series of run-up. This methodology was applied to Palm Beach on the Gold Coast (QLD, Australia). The nearshore wave climate was validated quantitatively, whereas the reconstructed wave run-up and total water-level time series was validated with a qualitative approximation, confirming that this methodology is capable of accurately transforming the offshore wave conditions into run-up time series. The total water levels were also reconstructed to show the applicability of the results to probabilistic flood-risk analyses. | |
dc.description.peerreviewed | Yes | |
dc.language | English | |
dc.language.iso | eng | |
dc.publisher | Coastal Education & Research Foundation | |
dc.publisher.place | United States | |
dc.relation.ispartofpagefrom | 475 | |
dc.relation.ispartofpageto | 489 | |
dc.relation.ispartofissue | 2 | |
dc.relation.ispartofjournal | Journal of Coastal Research | |
dc.relation.ispartofvolume | 34 | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearch | Earth sciences | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearch | Physical oceanography | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearch | Engineering | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearchcode | 37 | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearchcode | 370803 | |
dc.subject.fieldofresearchcode | 40 | |
dc.title | A Meta-Modelling Approach for Estimating Long-Term Wave Runup and Total Water Level on Beaches | |
dc.type | Journal article | |
dc.type.description | C1 - Articles | |
dc.type.code | C - Journal Articles | |
gro.rights.copyright | Self-archiving of the author-manuscript version is not yet supported by this journal. Please refer to the journal link for access to the definitive, published version or contact the author(s) for more information. | |
gro.hasfulltext | No Full Text | |
gro.griffith.author | Tomlinson, Rodger B. | |