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  • Wave dispersion equation in a porous seabed

    Author
    Jeng, Dong-Sheng
    Year published
    2001
    Metadata
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    Abstract
    The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous ...
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    The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous seabed. The objective of this study is to establish a new wave dispersion equation for waves propagating over a porous seabed. Based on the new relation, the effects of a porous seabed on wave characteristics (such as the wavelength and wave profile) are discussed in detail.
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    Journal Title
    Ocean Engineering
    Volume
    28
    DOI
    https://doi.org/10.1016/S0029-8018(00)00068-8
    Subject
    HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY
    Publication URI
    http://hdl.handle.net/10072/4046
    Collection
    • Journal articles

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